Do the terminals look corroded? It has not flashed sence then it only came on and stayed on once after that and not at all after raplaceing the temp sensor. Everything you described sounded reasonable and I think you're on the right track. No, but you do have to remove the heads to replace the valve stem seals because the valve springs and valve itself need to be removed to get to them usually are made of brass or nylon and lock onto the valve itself. I soldered this back together - cleared the code - code reappeared. Just out of curiosity, you are using the proper oil for the engine and not going really thin right? Gas leakage on exhaust system. Dry test-185-182-182-182 Wet test-180-184-190-210 All within 10lbs prolly as I was not quick to get to the guage. The engine itself is in good shape.
Here are some of the most common. My Mustang threw codes off and on and I traced it to torn insulation on my Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor. If the oil is very dark in a short period of time, the engine is either sludged up from using petroleum oils, or too much fuel is getting into the oil. P1305 - Possible causes - Ignition Coil No. But because the computer's calculation will never be correct due to the wrong voltage signal, you will then get P0125. Higher temperatures improve fuel vaporization, but only to a certain point. Attempting to diagnose and repair your own vehicle, you would do very well to purchase a scan code reader.
Heated oxygen sensor bank 1 sensor 1. As for right now no codes are present. Anyway, after this incident, the C. If there is insufficient coolant in the system, the engine may not warm properly. Also, if that code indicates that the engine isn't warming up in time, that could be a caused by a bad coolant temperature sensor, but also things such as intermittent missing, and very, very cold ambient temperatures. Would the valves have to be replaced to fix it? This pointed me back to the known damage to wiring harness found following clutch change.
Also I put new plugs in 2 days ago and the car ran worse right after and the engine light started flashing but cleared up shortly after The check engine light flashing means the engine is missing. Symptoms You will likely not notice any drivability problems. Now I can't pass inspection with the light on and it's got to get fixed. Perform quick racing to 4000 rpm 3 times. It can also denote more than one 02 sensor malfunctions.
Everytime it rained the connection would short out and make the car think it was overheating and throw a code after running rough for a second. Black exhaust indicates an overly rich fuel condition. Thank you in advance, Brian From the manual. Be sure there are no leaks and that the pressure cap is working properly. Check all of them for corrosion or fraying.
This may help you or may confuse you. Check to make sure they are not burnt or corroded. Just because that check engine light is not on doesn't mean there's not a problem. Check the connections from the coil to the plug and make sure they aren't damaged or worn. Check the output voltage signals that your oxygen sensors are giving out. All the connections at the coil are clean, I replaced 2 of the coils with ones from the yard today and that didnt throw any codes nor did it when I pulled the other 2 connections of the other 2 coils.
Weird those codes get thrown replacing spark plugs. If the code comes back, the problem is likely going to be the result of the above causes faulty thermostat, faulty , or a low coolant level. Went an scanned it an pulled a p0125 code so I replaced the coolant temp sensor but it still has the lack of power. Internet search says engine coolant temp. To extract the best performance from a given drop of fuel, the modern engine monitors and modulates a number of things, including oxygen content, spark timing, valve timing, injector pulse width, and many others.
Blue exhaust is oil burning. Replaced sensor with Bosch sensor and code p0171 went away but p0125 still there. If the voltage signal no longer fluctuates, it's due for a replacement. Sep 07, 2011 That code in any toyota don't require sensor replacement, what it is is that the thermostat is not close complete or there is a small leak somewhere in your coolant system, the computer is spectating 180 or so from the moment that yo start the car to the moment that computer knows that that temp has to be reached if that don't happen because the car is loosing its temp due to a leak or a open thermostat , the computer sets p0125 unable to reach temp for close loop. Was there a lot of dirt or grime around the connectors? Also check the connection at the coil to make sure there isn't a loose connection. Get a compression test done. What else can it be? P0125- closed loop fuel control insufficien.
After that car will not start but 20 minutes it start but again stop, if you just start the care and don? Hooked up my laptop to vehicle to read output voltage from sensor 1, I'm getting no voltage reading from 1 sensor but can get a voltage reading from 2 sensor. No engine light yet as I reset the ecu and have only put 20 miles on it so far after replaceing the sensor. P0125 Ford Description The Engine Coolant Temperature sensor is used to detect the engine coolant temperature. I just did a compression test and starting from the drivers side this is what I got. Local garage read code as P0125B. Look inside the engine via the oil fill hole with a strong light and look for dark accumulations of sludge from using petroleum oil.
Looking under the vehicle I found one of the 4 wires to B1S1 sensor connection broken. That will actually tell you the misfire count on each cylinder. I have not tried to measure any voltage on the connector with the car running heater voltage, gnd, closed loop control voltage. Not sure if you can find those codes online either. Here are some of the most common. She didn't hit very hard- mostly scs along the quarter panel. We tried replacing the fuel pump and filter, fuel injectors and even the coolant temp sensor and it didn't work.